Using an electric saw, cut a section of the intermediate pipe equal in length to the cutout/Y-pipe assembly itself. Any area between the header collector (or behind the catalytic converter) and the mufflers will work fine.
The farther rearward the cutout is positioned, the less resonance there will be inside the cabin. This particular install was on a truck, but the process is universal and applies to virtually all vehicle platforms.
Since the exhaust pipes and muffler dangle freely on their hangers after the cut is made, the cutout was first tacked into position with an MIG welder.
After verifying proper exhaust alignment, the welds were completed.
The positioning of the bypass outlet in relation to the chassis doesn't affect performance, but can impact ground clearance
The electric bypass valve is held in place with three bolts, and features slotted boltholes that allow rotating the entire assembly on the cutout flange for easier positioning.
Orienting the electric motor close to the framerails simplifies wire routing by keeping it away from the hot exhaust pipe
Heavy duty 16-gauge wiring is used throughout the harness, which also includes an integrated 3-amp quick-blow fuse. All connections are plug-and-play and weather resistant.
We recommend routing the wiring along the framerail, over the K-member, and up the firewall. The wire can either be anchored along the framerail, or zip-tied to the brake lines.
After fishing the wiring through an existing hole in the firewall, Steve connected the hot wire to a switched ignition source using a wire tap.
The only other necessary connection was hooking up the ground wire. No splicing or soldering was required
With the installation complete, the electric valve is actuated by simply toggling this slick rocker switch that's included in the kit. Since the subject of our installation featured a dual exhaust system, the entire procedure was repeated on the other side of the vehicle.
Now that you're Race Ready it's time to open up them pipes and hit the track!
1 - 8